| T O P I C R E V I E W |
| jbjcreations |
Posted - 18 Mar 2005 : 17:46:18
Hi David, it's Jackie from jbjcreations. I have just bought an old chair which would probably be an overstuffed chair and I had intended to stuff it with the horsehair etc. However, it currently has springs in and I am not too keen on them, so could I just stuff it and avoid using springs?
jackie |
| 9 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First) |
| Lorre |
Posted - 26 Mar 2005 : 15:26:01
David . . . I will do as you advise. It will probably only require four springs, so it should be easy enough.
Best,
Lorre |
| oldsofas |
Posted - 23 Mar 2005 : 15:34:46
For a first go you'll make life easier for yourself if you use a square pattern of springs e,g two rows of two, three rows of three.
D |
| Lorre |
Posted - 23 Mar 2005 : 13:42:04
Thanks for the info, David! I have decided to install some springs -- do that trial and error thing. I think my chair will take 4 or 5. At the very least, I get to practice my spring tying!
Best,
Lorre |
| oldsofas |
Posted - 22 Mar 2005 : 20:43:47
No formula, use as many as will fit comfortably in the space - on a small chair 2 rows of 2 is good on a bigger chair 3 rows of 3. |
| Lorre |
Posted - 22 Mar 2005 : 15:33:57
David . . . thanks for such a great explanation. I am thinking I would like to install springs in the chair I am reupholstering, as it will get a fair amount of use. Is there a formula to determine how many springs to use?
Thanks,
Lorre |
| oldsofas |
Posted - 21 Mar 2005 : 21:55:13
Lorre,
Webbing always leaves tell tale tack hole patterns that will show you whether it's had more in the past, although it can be difficult to spot if it's been upholstered many times. Webbing is the foundation of all the subsequent upholstery and it has to be firm i.e sufficient strands interwoven and tensioned so that it give a note when flicked - like a drum. If you're going to add springs you will want to fasten the webbing to the under side of the chair frame - webbing goes on top of the chair frame if there are no springs. This is a pretty inviolable rule and worth remembering, but obvious when you think about it - If you put springs on top of webbing that's attached to the top of a seat frame your seat will be far to tall even if you use short springs.
Seat springs have to support weight so they need to be made of a thicker gauge wire than those you would use in a back or arms. The other consideration is height, and this will depend on how deep you want the seat to be. Tying seat springs is a bit of a skill, not difficult but not to be underestimated. If you tie the springs well you will reduce their height by 25% or so, hold them in position so they only get compressed (springs get damaged when webbing or upholstery gives way over time and they get pushed from the sides or in other ways that they weren't designed to tolerate), make them act in unison and shape them into a smooth, regular, dome.
The best way to check a spring to see if it's up for the job you have in mind is to compress it between your hands or put it on the webbed base and squash it down - you'll be able to tell whether it's firm enough to take the weight.
I'm rambling a bit - springs and springing is quite complex so I get a bit carried away. A good place to start is a basic sprung overstuffed seat with 9 springs in three rows of three you've got lots of access to get in and tie the springs and you can see immediately whether you've got a nice shape to them when you've finished.
Regards David
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| Lorre |
Posted - 21 Mar 2005 : 17:01:00
David . . . would this hold true to the contrary? What if the orignal chair did not have springs and I wanted to put springs in for the reasons you explained? How would I determine spring size? The chair I am restoring only has coir fiber; and as you can imagine, it has flattened substantially over time. Additionally, there was not much webbing installed -- only two strips in each direction. (Don't know about you, but I imagine most bottoms need more support than that!) It is difficult to tell whether it was done this way when it was last reupholstered or original to the chair, which I doubt, because the fabric is some kind of vinyl.
Thanks,
Lorre |
| jbjcreations |
Posted - 18 Mar 2005 : 22:34:02
Hi. Thanks again. This is typical enthusiasm. One chair and I'm about to set the world on fire with what I am going to do next! It's not that I'm not keen on springs, let's face it, this is a totally new world to me, but I am trying to build up my knowledge as I go along.
Considering what you said, I may well think about putting the springs back in, once I have it stripped.
jackie |
| oldsofas |
Posted - 18 Mar 2005 : 21:45:42
Jackie, great to see you on the forum - thank you. To spring or not to spring. I'd like to know why you're not too keen on the springs.
Overstuffed chairs come with springs and they also come without, so yes, you can leave them out and just stuff the seat. The job of springs is to return the seat to its original shape once the sitter has stood up, they also take up space so you use less stuffing to stuff the seat. A seat without springs will develop a flat spot where it's been sat on. Rather than take them out we more often than not put them into backs and arms that don't have them because they mean we save on stuffing and also it makes the back and arms feel more user friendly.
It's up to you, as long as you've given it soem thought and feel that you're doing the right
thing for the chair.
Regards D |
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