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arthur0505
United Kingdom
4 Posts |
 Posted - 07 Feb 2007 : 12:20:24
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I was lucky enough to be given the chair in the photo (hopefully it has arrived through OK). I think it is from the 1920s (corrections gratefully received). Unfortunately it was already stripped and I just want some reassurance that my plans for rebuild are correct.
I think the chair will have just one stuffing layer on the seat and have a cushion on top. I know it was originally covered in leather, which I'll repeat but I thought the cushion would be good in fabric. The back and arms will have two stuffing layers.
Specific queries I have are: Does the mesh on top of the springs negate the need for typing them? Do I need to do anything special with the arm springs (since they too have mesh on top)? Any guidance in using springs with mesh top would be helpful. Is leather much more difficult to work with than fabric? What are the options for finishing off the front border and scrolls? I'm assuming domed tacks.
I look forward to receiving some suggestions, it gets a bit lonely working away in solitary in the chilly garage!!
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Lorre
USA
107 Posts |
Posted - 07 Feb 2007 : 15:10:04
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| Hi, there! Let me be the first to welcome you to the Old Sofas Forum. I am sure David and Ruth and those with knowledge can help with your questions; and the rest of us, well . . . we will definitely offer emotional support! |
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arthur0505
United Kingdom
4 Posts |
Posted - 07 Feb 2007 : 15:54:20
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Many thanks for your words of welcome. Emotional support will be greatly received.
Hopefully all will make more sense when the photo arrives. |
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laura
United Kingdom
24 Posts |
Posted - 07 Feb 2007 : 16:11:26
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If your chair is clean and tidy.. bring it inside!!! My current project is smack dab in the middle of the lounge! Grandpa chair is a part of the family now and I think we all enjoy seeing the transformation. I can't work carefully when I'm cold, just want to rush...
By the way, everyone, I want the springs on my chair's seat to look level... how can I get the middle ones to compress better?? Would it be crazy to tie the top of the spring to the bottom of the spring and pull it together??
I'm afraid I'm not a traditionalist, I'll try anything if it makes sense!!! : /
Thanks for comments good or bad.
And Welcome, Arthur.
Regards
Laura |
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oldsofas
264 Posts |
Posted - 07 Feb 2007 : 17:43:38
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| Apologies for the delay in posting the picture. It's mid 30's and you should treat it exactly the same as you would a traditionally upholstered chair. The spring units replace the webbing and tied together double cone springs so just carry on as if that part has been done for you - likewise the arm springs. Treat the seat just like any with a seat cushion but if you're going to use leather the front 1/3 should be leather and the back 2/3 i.e the bit that isn't seen under the cushion should be a neutral fabric so that the air can escape from the cushion. Any joins that you would plan to hand stitch - scrolls, joins between outside back and sides - you will have to finish with upholstery nails. |
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paula
United Kingdom
34 Posts |
Posted - 07 Feb 2007 : 18:54:43
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Arthur - welcome! Laura! Your springs - well ... there's a little secret which I'm willing to share (David/Ruth - no offence!) ... get some metal coathangers or similar gauge wire, cut into strips which are the length you want to compress the springs plus 2 inches. Create hooks at both ends with the extra 1 inches. These hook over the top and bottom of the spring. For example if you to compress a 7 inch spring by a third, the spring compressors will be 5 inches. You'll need 3 per spring and it's best to compress the whole lot. Also the centre spring will also be tied in the centre cross section (have a look at the pics of my springs on the inlaid chair post). Reading this back the explanation seems a bit clumsy hope it makes sense!
If you keep the compressors on the springs while you tie them, the springs will be at the same height.
Gotta go - small child wants a bath and go to bed!!!
P |
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laura
United Kingdom
24 Posts |
Posted - 07 Feb 2007 : 20:45:14
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Thanks Paula! I love this forum!!! :))
I believe the idea then is to remove these 'compressors', when finished with tying, then? I will give it a go!
Arthur, good luck! I can't offer advice as I'm new to this. Sorry!! |
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jean
France
198 Posts |
Posted - 08 Feb 2007 : 08:06:06
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I know David doesn't (didn't) use compressors but I have never been able to compress my seat springs enough by hand.
Just for the record I use electric wire which I find much more user friendly - if you cut it to a decent length (I think mine are about 25 cms but I've never measured) it can be used to compress any size spring. It's much easier to remove once you've got your springs tied and of course it is adjustable so you can change your mind on the job as it were. And finally, as it's flexible it doesn't hurt your hands (although the springs do that anyway!). I use three per spring.
There will always be a slight dome on the springs when you take the wire/coat hangars off but that's easily sorted when you stuff and regulate.
Oh - and something else I've started doing although it's not in the books so it must be wrong...hard to explain but here goes.
Having put on the electric wire I tie down all the springs going one way - ie start and finish on the rung down from the top of the spring. This leaves a length of spring twine at each end of each row of springs. Then I take off the electric wire and only then do I use the remaining twine to tie to the top rung of the outside springs and on. This means that the outside of the spring unit is level with the rest. Asleep yet?
XX Jean |
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Veronica
United Kingdom
34 Posts |
Posted - 08 Feb 2007 : 10:35:24
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Brilliant hint about compressing springs .
Regards Veronica |
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arthur0505
United Kingdom
4 Posts |
Posted - 08 Feb 2007 : 10:52:50
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Thanks all for your comments. I hadn't planned to compress the springs on the chair - can you shed a little light on why it's important to do so.
Can anyone recommend a book/website on dating chairs. I'm learning a little as I go along but need more guidance. |
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laura
United Kingdom
24 Posts |
Posted - 08 Feb 2007 : 12:26:35
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Thanks, Jean, so much. I will try both methods, I think.
I can't believe how strong the springs are!!! : /~
Arthur, forgive me for hi-jacking your topic with a question of my own, regarding springs!. I'm sure someone will correct me if my hunch is wrong, but I don't believe your springs will need compressing, as such, because they are contained under the wire mesh. But that's just my guess. It's quite a different set-up to my chairs. You might find some chair info on auction web pages like Bonhams?
Ie you're not out in the garage this morning!!! BRRRRRRR. |
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Lorre
USA
107 Posts |
Posted - 08 Feb 2007 : 13:33:11
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I think Laura might be right about not having to compress these springs, as they are contained. I cannot recall what this type of springing is (could be related to the Marshall unit, maybe), but I will have a look in my "library" of books. This chair probably falls under the category of modern, which is a period that does not hold much interest for me. The very idea of foam makes me start to break out!
As for dating chairs, Arthur, I have a number of books that I read on a daily basis (very boring life!). Some of the information is actually starting to stick to my feeble memory. To test my knowledge, I go to local auctions to look at the chairs, specifically. Then to find out if I am correct with my guess, I read the information on the tagged item. Sadly, so far, my record is so-so, at best. But I have two books which I believe are still available, which you might take a look at at your local book shop:
CHAIRS -- A History by Florence de Dampierre
UPHOLSTERY in America & Europe by Eward S. Cooke, Jr.
I have also found old auction catagloues quite helpful. You might want to look at Sotheby's and Christie's websites for their furniture auctions; and there is also Doyle's New York. Plus there are a number of great books on furniture, which includes chairs, but that is a longer list, and a great source of information. Basically, I read (repeatedly) what I can get my hands on. And I scour the internet for old upholstery books. I have found some that are so old, they smell old!
And If you haven't as yet, do pick up a copy of David and Ruth's book. I refer to it quite often -- it's like having an old friend with me everyday while I am working.
Hope this helps! And its BRRRRRRRR on this side of the pond, too! 15 degrees! Yesterday, it was 7 degrees!
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jean
France
198 Posts |
Posted - 08 Feb 2007 : 16:59:25
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You don't need to compress your springs on this chair.
The reason you compress springs on chairs which don't have the unit yours has is so that you don't end up sitting on the equivalent of an upholstered trampoline! You want the tied springs to be approx 20 - 25 per cent lower than they started (allowing for the fact that the middle ones will be domed and slightly higher). That way the springs add comfort but are also helping to keep all the upholstery and the final fabric tight.
Please note that I'm talking about seat springs here and not backs or arms. They are still tied off but I don't think they need to be compressed quite so much - at least judging by the armchairs I've been undoing! |
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oldsofas
264 Posts |
Posted - 08 Feb 2007 : 17:45:58
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| Frame permitting, I would always replace spring units with tensioned webbing and double cone springs - spring untis add nothing to the strength of the frame and make you feel as if you're sitting on a waterbed. More work, but much better results. |
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arthur0505
United Kingdom
4 Posts |
Posted - 09 Feb 2007 : 18:10:40
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Wow, my head is now spinning with springs!! After reading all your comments I plan to leave the spring units in tact as the chairs were designed that way. I have no intention of putting foam anywhere near the chair, as although it is not an antique I like to think of it as vintage and I know it was stuffed with horse hair originally.
Thank you for the recommendations about dating furniture and the books. I have started to make a collection of books but will now add to them. Yes I do have a copy of David and Ruth's book, which is already becoming quite dogeared and dusty. It is really useful as are the CDs - but of course I don't have a computer out in the chilly garage! |
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jean
France
198 Posts |
Posted - 09 Feb 2007 : 18:15:17
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| I thought an antique was over 50 years. I hope so as that's what I told my husband on his big birthday last year ... "now I'm married to an antique"! |
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Lorre
USA
107 Posts |
Posted - 09 Feb 2007 : 22:50:32
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Arthur . . . We all are always so happy to help, that I imagine our comments and enthusiasm can be a bit overwhelming. So just remember to breathe! :)
I do understand your decision to leave the spring units in tact. But be sure that none of the springs are damaged -- even minutely. You do not want to discover a broken spring, some time after you have completely restored the chair. From the photo, it looks like the webbing definitely needs to be replaced.
One last thing -- I did a little research on spring units and if I remember correctly, they were invented around 1908 and were used strictly for mass production. As a purist, I must confess that I agree with David and Ruth on the springs. If I were to restore this chair, I definitely would replace the spring unit with traditional springing.
Jean . . . I am not sure what the age distinction is for an antique, but since I am on the verge of turning 50, I am definitely beginning to feel like an antique -- except, of course, on those very rare occasions when I actually manage to pass "some young thing" during one of my road races! |
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jean
France
198 Posts |
Posted - 10 Feb 2007 : 09:20:10
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Just think Lorre - you'll increase in value 10 fold on your big birthday!  |
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Lorre
USA
107 Posts |
Posted - 10 Feb 2007 : 14:16:46
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| Thanks, Jean! I will try to remember that! |
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Stripped and Ready
